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A
B C D E
F G H I
J K L M
N O P Q
R S T U
V W X Y
Z Numbered Items
A
All-Weather Microfiber
100% Polyester Microfiber with waterproof coating and fully taped
seams. 100% waterproof.
Anti-Pill A treatment applied to garments primarily
to resist the formation of little balls on the fabric’s surface
due to abrasion during wear.
AQL
Level Known as the 'Apparel
Quality Level' (or) 'Assured Quality Level', the lower the number,
the better quality goods. The higher the number, the lower quality
of goods. Stars Design Group consistently delivers
the lowest AQL levels in the industry at 1.4 to 1.7.
Argyle Typically a diamond pattern woven into a garment.
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B
Baby Pique
Very small pique knit. (See Pique Knit).
Back Pleats Tiny folds in the material on the back
of a garment that allow for more room and comfort.
Back Yoke A piece of fabric that connects the back
of a garment to the shoulders. This allows the garment to lay flat
and drape nicely.
Backing Yarn The yarn which is napped on the inside
of a fleece garment, that creates the soft lining of fleece.
Bartacked - Reinforced stitching, i.e. rivets used
in reinforcing pockets on jeans.
Basket Weave Knit process of weaving yarns back and
forth resulting in a two-tone appearance.
Binding A sewing method that encases an edge or seam
with fabric.
Birdseye Jacquard A small geometric pattern with
a center dot knit into the fabric.
Blanket Stitch A decorative stitch used to finish
an unhemmed blanket. The stitch can be seen on both sides of the blanket.
Bonded Fleece Fleece produced with multiple layers
that are bonded together creating a thicker and heavier weight garment.
Box Pleat A single, uniform fold in the center back
of a garment to allow for more room and comfort.
Brushed Cotton Cotton fabric that is brushed to remove
all the excess lint and fibers from the fabric, leaving an ultra soft,
smooth finish.
Button-Through Sleeve Placket A small placket located
on the sleeve, by the cuff, which contains a single button closure.
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C
Cami-Strap Very narrow shoulder
straps.
Carding A fiber cleaning process in yarn spinning.
Casual Microfiber 100% Polyester Microfiber fabric
that is water repellent and wind resistant.
Cavalry Twill A type of Twill Weave (Pattern of the
Twill).
Chambray A dressier fabric woven with white threads
across colored threads.
Collarette The trim around the neck of a t-shirt
or sweatshirt.
Combed Cotton Cotton yarn that has been combed to
remove short fibers and straighten or arrange longer fibers in parallel
order resulting in a smooth yarn used in finer garments.
Compaction A shrinkage control technique used in
fabric manufacturing.
Cool Mesh Similar to a pique knit but with a more
open texture for increased breathability. Features a soft hand for
better comfort.
Cool Weave Similar to a pique knit, but with a more
open texture for increased breathability. Slightly larger knit than
Cool Mesh, it has a denser feel.
Cord Locks A stopper or toggle on a drawcord that
keeps the cord from retracting into the garment.
Course Loops of horizontal knit fabric.
Coverseamed A finish in which two needles are used
to create parallel rows of visible stitching. It is used around the
neck, armholes, waistband, and wrists of garments to create a cleaner,
more durable finish.
Cut The number of needles utilized per inch when
knitting fabric.
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D
Denier A density of the weave in a nylon or polyester
product.
Dobby A decorative weave, usually geometric, that
is woven into the fabric.
Double-Needle Stitched A finish used on a sleeve
and/or bottom hem that uses two needles to create parallel rows of
visible stitching. It gives the garment a cleaner, more finished look
and adds durability.
Dry-Fiber A high activity sportswear fabric that
absorbs, wicks and dries faster than average golf wear.
Drop Needle A knit fabric characterized by vertical
lines within the cloth. Manufactured by “dropping” a needle
from the knitting cylinder.
Drop Tail A design feature where the back of the
garment is longer then the front.
Duck Cloth Tightly woven fabric that provides wind
and snag resistance.
Dyed-To-Match Buttons or trims that are the same
color as the garment onto which they are sewn.
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E
EcoSpun A fleece outerwear fabric made from at least
50% materials reclaimed from recycled plastic soda pop bottles.
End-on-End A 2-ply weave of different color yarns
that run parallel against each other so that both colors are visible.
Enzyme Washed A laundering process in which a catalytic
substance is added to create a chemical change in the fabric resulting
in a very soft finish, smoother appearing surface and reduced shrinkage.
Etched Tone Buttons A more upscale horn tone button
with an etched pattern.
Extended Tail When the back portion of the garment
is longer than the front. Assists in keeping the garment tucked in
during normal activity.
Eyelets Small holes or perforations made in a series
to allow for breathability. Finished with either stitching or brass
grommets.
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F
Face Yarn The exterior yarn of a fleece garment.
Fleece A multi-yarn fabric identified by a soft napped
interior and a smooth exterior.
Full Cut Refers to a garment's fit as being generous
and roomy.
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G
Garment Washed A wash process where softeners are
added to finished garments to help the cotton fibers relax or bloom.
The result is a fabric with a thicker appearance, reduced shrinkage
and a softer hand.
Garment Dyed A dyeing process that occurs after the
garment is assembled.
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H
Hand Quality or characteristic of fabrics that are
perceived by the sense of touch; e.g. firmness, softness, fineness,
drape.
Henley A knit shirt with a button placket at the
neckline, no collar. Copied from a shirt originally worn by
rowers at Henley, England.
Herringbone A chevron or zig-zag pattern, knit into
fabric.
High Profile A cap style with a high slope structured
with buckram–a stiff fabric lining. Less fitted to the head.
Horn Tone Buttons Buttons that appear to be manufactured
from horn.
Houndstooth A medium sized broken check effect that
is knit into the fabric.
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I
Inset/Set-In Placket A placket that is constructed
from a separate piece of fabric and sewn in separately. This placket
is visible after it is sewn into the garment.
Interlock Knit A fabric that has two plys knit simultaneously
to form one thicker and heavier ply. It has more natural stretch than
a jersey knit, a soft hand, and the same appearance and feel on both
sides.
Iridescent Buttons Buttons with a lustrous, rainbow-like
hue.
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J
Jacquard Knit A pattern knit directly into the fabric
during the manufacturing process. Typically, 2 or more colors are
used. Woven jacquard fabrics include brocade, damask and tapestry.
In knits, jacquard is typically a jersey fabric with a different and
more complex needle selection.
Jersey Knit This fabric has a definite smooth side,
the outside, and a textured side, the inside.
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K
Knit Fabric Fabric made by intertwining yarn or thread
in a series of connected loops.
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L
Lamborder A flat rib knit, with specified dimensions,
that is used to function as a placket and placket facing.
Locker Loop A looped piece of fabric in the neck
of a garment for the convenience of hanging the garment on a hook.
Can also be located at the center of the back yoke on the inside or
outside of a garment.
Locker Patch A semi-oval panel sewn into the inside
back portion of a garment, just under the collar seam, to reinforce
the garment and minimize stretching when hung on a hook. The patch
also allows for the garment tag or label to be sewn below the neckline
to help prevent irritation.
Low Profile A cap style with a low slope that is
more closely fitted to the head. Can be either structured or unstructured.
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M
Matte Taslan See Taslan but with a dull finish.
Melange A mix of different colors of yarns knit together
to create a heathered effect.
Mercerized A product that has gone through a process
to produce a smooth, lustrous hand.
Mesh Similar to a pique knit, but with a more open
texture for increased breathability. Larger knit than Cool Weave.
Micro Fleece A high density, anti-pilling fleece
made of knit micro-fibers that are brushed less than a regular fleece
garment. It has a high capacity for warmth without the weight.
Microfiber This fabric is tightly woven from a very
fine poly thread and has a sueded finish for a luxurious, soft feel.
Microfiber fabric is naturally water repellent due to its construction
process and when specially treated, can also be waterproof.
Micro Cord A very fine wale cord.
Micro-Stripe An ultra-fine stripe that is knit into
the fabric.
Mid Profile A cap with a slope height in between
that of a High Profile and Low Profile. It is most often structured
with buckram.
Mother of Pearl Logo Buttons Buttons made from Mother
of Pearl, with a logo inscribed on them.
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N
Nap The soft or fuzzy surface of fleece achieved
by shredding the backing yarn.
Nail Head Design A jacquard knitting pattern in which
the jacquard forms a design similar to small nail heads.
Nublend™ The combination of a knitting and
spinning process developed by JERZEES ®for their blended fleece
that helps prevent pilling.
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O
Optical Brightener A fabric brightening additive.
Overdyed A process in which yarn dyed fabrics or
piece dyed garments are put through an additional dye color to create
unique colors.
Oxford A type of fabric where the fibers are either
cotton or blended man-made fibers.
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P
Patch Pocket A pocket attached to the outside of
a garment.
Pearlized Buttons Buttons that have a pearl-colored
hue.
Pewter Buttons Buttons that have a dull, metallic
hue.
Pewter and Horn Tone Buttons Buttons that incorporate
pewter and horn tone, usually one encompasses the other.
Pigment Dyed A type of dye used to create a distressed
or washed look.
Pill Free ® A process developed by Lee ®to
help prevent pilling on fleece garments.
Pique Knit A knitting method that creates a fine
textured surface that appears similar to a birds nest, waffle weave
or honeycomb. It offers an open knit surface with a coarser hand
than jersey or interlock and used primarily in short-sleeve knit polo
shirts.
Placket The part of a shirt or jacket where the garment
fastens or buttons together.
Poly-filled A warm polyester lining found in the
body or sleeves of outerwear garments. It has more loft than a regular
nylon lining.
Polynosic Features similar characteristics to cotton
and silk, has excellent luster and very little shrinkage.
Popcorn Pique Alternating rows of 2 different pique
knits; one knit is a baby pique, while the other is a larger pique
that resembles small circles knit closely together.
Poplin A tightly woven, durable, medium weight cotton
or cotton blend fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave
which creates a slight ridge effect.
Print Pro™ A knitting process developed by
Hanes ®for their fleece garments that creates a tighter knit for
a better printing surface.
PVC A polyurethane coating that is added to make
garments water resistant.
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R
Raglan Sleeves Sleeves set with a diagonal seam from
the neck to the armpit.
Rapid Dry A fabric designed with a unique weave to
wick away moisture from the body.
Reactive Dyes Dyestuffs that form chemical bonds
with cotton fibers.
Reverse Placket See Placket, but reversed for women’s
garments.
Rib Knit A textured knit that has the appearance
of vertical lines. It is highly elastic and retains "memory".
Ring Spun Yarn Yarn made by continuously twisting
and thinning a rope of cotton fibers. The twisting makes the short
hairs of cotton stand out, resulting in a stronger yarn with a significantly
softer hand.
R-Tek™ Fleece 100% polyester fleece with an
anti-pill finish which prevents the formation of little balls on the
surface of the fabric.
Running Stitch A stitch that is spaced equally, with
the underside stitching being half the length of the external side.
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S
Sandwashed A washing process in which the fabric
is washed with very fine lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls resulting
in a softer fabric with a relaxed look and reduced shrinkage.
Sculpted Hem A hem that is softly rounded for fashion
detail.
Seamless Collar A collar that is knit in a circle
and set circular. There are no "joining" seams on the collar.
Self-Fabric Collar A collar that is constructed from
the same material as the body of the garment.
Self-Fabric Sweatband- Refers to headwear where the sweatband is constructed
with the same fabric as the crown.
Serge Stitch An overcasting technique done on the
cut edge of the fabric to prevent unraveling.
Side Vents- Slits found at the bottom of side seams. They are fashion
details that allow for comfort and ease of movement.
Singles A term used to indicate the diameter of a
yarn; the smaller the number, the thicker the yarn.
Single Needle Single row of stitching at seam, see
"Top Stitching".
Slash Pockets A pocket that has to be entered through
a slash on the outside of the garment. The pocket pouch is suspended
from and attached to the slash.
Stonewashed A washing process in which the fabric
or garment is heavily washed with lava rocks or rubber/silicon balls.
The result is a softer fabric with a distressed or weathered look
and reduced shrinkage.
Storm Flap A strip of fabric sewn under or over the
front zip or snap closure of an outerwear garment to protect against
wind and moisture.
Structured A cap style with a lined front consisting
of buckram, a stiff fabric, that controls the slope of the cap.
Sueded Cotton A fabric that goes through a brushing
process to raise the nap and give the garment a soft hand.
Sueded Nylon (See Sueded Cotton).
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T
Taped Seams A strip of fabric sewn to the seam of
a garment to prevent distortion. In outerwear, taped seams aid in
waterproofing.
Taslan Refers to how the fibers are woven and the
resulting texture. Used mainly in outerwear garments, Taslan is a
durable and water repellent nylon fabric with a slightly shiny surface.
Teklon A rugged, stronger Taslan nylon that is water
repellent.
Tencel A fabric made from the cellulose found in
wood pulp which is processed into a silk-like, delicate fabric.
Terra-Tek™ A durable and water repellent Taslan
with a matte finish.
Terry Velour A type of material with uncut loops
on both sides. It has a soft, plush feel and is water absorbent.
Three-End Fleece Face, tie-in and backing yarns combined
to form a fleece fabric.
Tricot Lining A very lightweight nylon lining most
often used in shorts.
Triple-Needle Stitched See Double-Needle Stitched
but with 3 stitches.
Tone on Tone Jacquard Collar See Jacquard Knit. The
two colors being used are the same.
Top Stitching A design feature, both decorative and
functional, that is an additional means of securing fabric plies whereby
the original seam is folded under and sewn down.
Tubular Collar Collar which is knit in a tube form
so it has no seams.
Tuck-In Tails A shirt constructed so the back hem
is longer than the front. This aids in keeping the shirt tucked-in
during strenuous activities.
Tuck Stitch Refers to the look of the knit where
some stitches are actually under the other stitches. Gives the shirt
a waffle-weave type texture and look.
Twill A fabric characterized by micro diagonal ribs
producing a soft, smooth finish.
Twill Tape Placket Lining Twill tape is attached
to the inside of the placket for a fashion effect.
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U
Underarm Grommets Small holes in the armpit area
to allow breathability and air circulation.
Unstructured A low profile cap style with a natural
low sloping crown. No buckram has been added to the crown.
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V
V Patch A section of material in a V shape that is
sewn onto a garment directly under the collarette. Can provide support
against stretching the neck opening and is also a style component.
Vents, Front & Back Allow for breathability and
may aid in ease of decoration, allowing the garment to be hooped and
embroidered with no show-through on the inside of the garment. Some
vents are tacked down and are for fashion purposes only.
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W
Waffle Weave/Knit A waffle, or square pattern, knit
or woven into a garment.
Washer Nylon A nylon garment treated with a special
finish to produce a crinkled effect.
Weathered Twill A special dye process resulting in
a softer fabric with a weathered appearance that will continue to
enhance with each wash.
Welt Collar and/or Cuffs A single ply fabric with
a finished edge that is used for collars and cuffs on sport shirts
and short sleeve garments.
Wood Tone Buttons Buttons that simulate a wood appearance.
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Y
Yarn Dyed Yarn that has been dyed prior to the weaving
or knitting of the garment.
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Numbered
Items
4-Needle Stitched Double-Needle stitched but with four stitches.
2-Way Zipper A zipper with two zipper pulls so that
it can be unzipped from either direction.
1x1 Rib Also 2x2 rib knit trim. The width of
each rib is the same as the width between each rib. This helps the
garment retain its elasticity.
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